Why choose the Northern Way? We begin with four good reasons. Did you know that a sandal of St. Peter is venerated in the Cathedral of Oviedo? Or that the Prince of Fashion was born in a modest fishermen’s house? Or that one of the first transatlantic flights landed on a beach in Cantabria? Have you walked along the roof of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela? The pilgrimage route that runs through Green Spain hides these secrets and more…
1. The Holy Chamber of Oviedo Cathedral (Asturias)
Reasons to choose the Northern Way
It is in Asturias where the Northern Way reaches several peaks of intensity, with pilgrims encountering the least densely populated areas, some of the most tranquil stages, and the steepest slopes. For this reason, Oviedo is a much-needed contrast, a grand and noble city (the third most populated city on the route after Bilbao and Gijón) where one can reconnect with urban life. Oviedo not only offers all the services of a modern city but also boasts an extensive and unique list of historical monuments, gastronomic corners, and one-of-a-kind shops.
What happened here?
In the heart of Oviedo, in a corner of the Cathedral of El Salvador, an event took place in the 11th century that Steven Spielberg would later replicate in his movie Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981). This time, the protagonist was not Harrison Ford but King Alfonso VI. In 1075, he traveled to the Asturian capital to open the Holy Ark of the cathedral and discovered, and continues to find, a fascinating selection of religious objects. The list is long, but the most unique are the Holy Shroud that covered Christ’s head, fragments of the cross on which Christ was crucified, vials of his blood and the Virgin’s milk, bread from the Last Supper, and a sandal of St. Peter. Alfonso VI was so impressed that he ordered a silver ark to house the objects, which can be visited today in the Holy Chamber, the most emblematic building of the entire cathedral complex.
2. The Fisherman’s Quarter of Getaria, Gipuzkoa (Basque Country)
Reasons to choose the Northern Way
Pilgrims have two paths to connect Zarautz with Getaria: one that ascends to the hermitage of Santa Bárbara and then descends into Getaria; and another that, without steep slopes, meanders along the N-634 road, one of the closest and most beautiful coastal stretches in Spain. It doesn’t matter which one is chosen, as both offer a unique walking experience. The first, through the mountains, offers great panoramic views and walks between vineyards of txakoli. The second will be appreciated by those who want to stroll near the salt air and waves, as well as enjoy the best profile of Mount San Antón in Getaria, which resembles a mouse.
What happened here?
In a modest house at 12 Aldamar Street, in the no less modest fishermen’s quarter of Getaria, a prince was born— the Prince of Fashion, whose name remains synonymous with fashion and design, even 50 years after his death. Indeed, it was in this white-walled house with green-painted wooden carpentry that Cristóbal Balenciaga was born in 1895. He learned the trade from his seamstress mother, then moved to San Sebastián and later Paris. It was there, in the City of Light, where he built his legend over three decades, becoming the most important Spanish haute couture designer. The Balenciaga Museum in Getaria commemorates this story and features a collection of over 1,200 garments and accessories designed by the artist during his career in his shops and ateliers in Donostia/San Sebastián and Paris.
3. Oyambre Beach, San Vicente de la Barquera (Cantabria)
Reasons to choose the Northern Way
The stretch that separates Santillana del Mar from San Vicente de la Barquera is just over 25 kilometers but includes one of the highest concentrations of monuments, spectacular towns, and natural landscapes on the entire route. The vast Oyambre beach is the perfect ending to an intense day of walking through idyllic meadows, solitary churches (San Martín de Cigüenza), colonial towns (Cóbreces or Comillas), or ghostly spots like the petrified forest of the Oyambre marshes. After the beach, the surprises continue in San Vicente de la Barquera, whose estuary, depending on the tide, will offer a radically different landscape.
What happened here?
In June 1929, a fragile yellow plane landed on the sand of the beach. It was the first transatlantic flight connecting the United States with Spain and the second (after the historic feat of Lindbergh in 1927) to cross the Atlantic. Over the past two years, more than 100 people had attempted this feat. The landing at Oyambre was unplanned: the goal was to reach France, but a journalist who sneaked onto the flight caused the plane to run out of fuel before reaching the French coast. Oyambre Beach saved the lives of the four passengers and immediately became part of aviation history. Little did they know that decades later, that same beach would become a paradise for surfers…
4. The Roofs of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, A Coruña (Galicia)
Reasons to choose the Northern Way
Walking on the roof of the most visited Christian temple on the planet is one of the most unique experiences in Santiago de Compostela. If done after walking the 900 kilometers of the Northern Way, with endorphins still flowing through the body, the sensations will be unparalleled. Not only because of the views and experiences from the top of the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral (such as the backdrop of the Baroque façade or the back of the iconic sculpture of the apostle Santiago, to name just two), but also because of the joy of the journey itself. Pilgrims traverse the rooms and corners of the Xelmírez Archbishop’s Palace, climb the narrow stairs of the tower, and finally ‘fly’ over the roof’s steps. The result? A 360° view, 30 meters high, of the entire Santiago de Compostela skyline.
What happened here?
Santiago de Compostela is probably the European tourist destination with the longest-standing trend: more than 1,000 years have passed since the remains of the apostle were found (and the construction of temples began to honor his legend), and its popularity is at one of its best moments. Each year, nearly 500,000 people make the pilgrimage to his tomb to experience one of the most stimulating travel experiences in Europe: a marked path across almost 900 kilometers of Spanish land, through trails, footpaths, and roads. One of the chosen routes is the Northern Way, preferred by medieval pilgrims who wanted to avoid the dangers of the Castilian borders, too close to the Arab troops. In fact, the cathedral itself was the target of destructive Muslim incursions, including the one led by Almanzor.
